FAQs
Select a set of FAQs to find out more!
Grass Seed FAQs
There's a lot to learn about grass seed. We've answeed your most asked questions below!
You can sow grass seed when temperatures are 10 degrees and above consistently during the day and at night. Before sowing, check these temperatures are forecast in your area for at least two weeks. Do not sow in flood, frost, snow or extremely hot conditions. With this in mind, typically the best times to sow are Spring or Autumn, and in most parts of the UK you can confidently sow from April right through to September.
The best way to learn how to sow a new lawn is by using our video guide / step by step pictorial guide. You can also scan the QR code on the back of your bag that will take you directly to our How To Hub.
Learn how to overseed a new lawn by using our how to overseed a lawn video guide. You can also scan the QR code on the back of your bag that will take you directly to our How To Hub.
A perfect seedbed should be five things; free of weeds and moss, stones or debris, and easy to rake through and level. You will achieve the perfect lawn if you have achieved these five things! Click below to read more about achieving the perfect seedbed for your grass seed.
Weeds and moss can appear on your lawn at any time. Even the best cared-for lawn can have the odd weed. Weeds and moss can be removed in various ways, so keep reading for more information on how to remove weeds and moss from your lawn!
Wear and tear is a natural occurrence in any lawn that gets a lot of use, causing patchy grass or creating bald spots in your lawn. But if the rest of your lawn is in good condition and only a few areas need a little help – it’s easy enough to do a quick repair! Knowing how to repair patches in your lawn is the quickest way to get your garden grass healthy and lush again!
We have a handy product calculator to help you find out how much grass seed, lawn food, and wildflower seed you need for your garden. All you need to do is measure the length and width of your garden (in metres) and enter them into our product calculator. We also have a product calculator on the right-hand side of each product page on our website.
The best grass seed for overseeding your lawn is the one that has been created with your lawn’s needs at the top of the list. Overseeding is a good opportunity to regain that lush lawn, repairing any patchy or tired-looking grass that may have emerged from any tough love your garden has been through. Click below for our guide on choosing the best grass seed for overseeding:
Spreaders are a great way to ensure even coverage while overseeding or sowing a new lawn so you can avoid patchiness. They are also extremely helpful for applying lawn food to help minimise fertiliser burn and to make sure all areas receive the same amount of product. We have a guide on choosing the best spreader settings to ensure your garden gets the coverage it needs to grow thick and lush:
Setting your seed up with the best foundation for growth will go a long way to producing the perfect lawn. Our Pre-Seed First Feed is packed with all the nutrients your lawn needs to accelerate the growth of new seedlings and get your ultimate lawn well underway! Due to its fast-acting nature, this lawn food is also perfect for fixing up wear and tear patches and can be used as a general lawn feed from March to September. For sowing a new lawn or overseeding an existing one, our Pre-Seed First Feed contains all the necessary nutrients to get your new grass off to a flying start.
When you aerate your lawn, you create pockets of air in the soil that helps to break up this compaction and allows nutrients, water and oxygen to flow again, improving the health and overall look of your lawn. Essentially, you're allowing your lawn to ‘breathe’, which works wonders for how it looks in the long run.
Growing & Watering
Most grass seed will sprout within 10 days of being sown – if sown in the correct conditions for growth. This means sowing when temperatures are 10 degrees and above, with good weather forecast for the following two weeks.
If sown in the correct conditions, your lawn should be fully grown at the 6-8 week mark when your grass is hitting heights of 5 – 7cm.
You should water a newly sown lawn once a day, everyday, for 6 weeks avoiding when it is raining. Our UK weather will do a good job of watering an existing lawn for most of the year – but during a drought you should aim to water deeply between 10-14 days apart to help your grass’ root system to build resilience.
Having a stunning, lush lawn adds tremendous charm and beauty to any garden. Whether you’re starting from scratch or looking to revive your existing lawn, sowing grass seed is a cost-effective and efficient way to achieve a thriving and vibrant garden lawn. In our how to sow grass seed guide, we walk you through the step-by-step process, ensuring you have all the necessary information to get your grass seeds growing as best they can from day one!
Most grass seed will sprout within ten days of being sown – if sown in the correct conditions for growth. This means sowing when temperatures are 10 degrees and above, with good weather forecast for the following two weeks. Keep reading for some helpful advice and the answer to the common question - "how long does grass take to grow".
You should aim to water your new lawn every day for the first six weeks from when you’ve planted your seeds. This six-week period is how long it takes for your grass to grow fully, and it will be ready for its first mow afterwards! You can hold off watering on days when it's forecast to rain outside.
Customers often ask us "when to mow new grass", and the answer is simple. Giving your seedlings at least six weeks to grow before approaching them with your mower is best.
Even the best cared-for lawn can show signs of weeds sprouting without warning. Weeds appearing can be even more surprising when you have done all the prep work when sowing your seeds. However, controlling these unexpected visitors is not difficult! So, keep reading and discover a few easy ways to remove weeds and moss from your newly seeded lawn.
This is when you will dust the cobwebs off your lawnmower from winter and give your lawn its first mow of the year, usually around mid-March. From there on, you should aim to mow your lawn at least once a week.
Mowing & Aftercare
You can mow your lawn at any height you like, but its best to follow a guide to keep your grass healthy. Cutting your lawn too short can damage it, and letting it grow too long can encourage weeds and disease to take hold. If your lawn gets a lot of use, you should mow at 20-40mm to keep it long and lush. For a finer lawn that’s just for show, you can mow shorter at 10-20mm. Regardless of what type of lawn you have, your first mow (spring) and last mow of the season (autumn) should be on the highest setting on your lawnmower.
From late February onwards your grass will resume growth and you may be wondering how often you should mow your lawn. In Spring and Summer you should aim to cut your lawn once a week. Cutting your grass too often and too short can stress it, so try to avoid this and enjoy your lawn between mows.
You should wait 6-8 weeks before mowing a new lawn, when your new grass is hitting heights of 5-7cm. Always cut new grass on the highest setting of your lawn mower before gradually reducing to your preferred mowing height. For general use lawns, aim to mow you grass at 20-40mm. For fine ornamental lawns, keep your height at 10-20mm.
We recommend letting your grass grow to around 50-70mm before cutting it (about the height of your ankle) – and this applies to all our grass seed products. However, it isn't ready for cutting if it hasn't reached this height after six to eight weeks. This slow growth could be due to a lack of soil nutrients, an unexpected weather change, or you may have sown your seed too deep into the soil.
It comes down to rotary vs cylinder mowers when deciding what is best. Your pick of the two comes down to what sort of cut you want your lawn to achieve and how much time you have on your hands!
Just as the sowing season comes to an end from October onwards, so does the mowing season. If you find your lawn needing a trim, mow on the highest setting, avoiding times when the soil is too soft or frozen, as this will damage your lawn. Once temperatures have dropped and grass growth has stalled, you can tuck your mower away for another season.
You can achieve lawn stripes using a mower with a rear roller that pushes the grass blades backwards and forwards. Or you can use a brush for a smaller area.
A healthy lawn is a happy lawn that can be enjoyed year after year. Keeping your lawn healthy doesn’t have to be a difficult job. Completing smaller tasks more regularly can mean that you won’t have as many jobs to do when summer arrives. Keep reading for our six steps to keep your lawn healthy and in good condition.
Pests
Unless you’ve had them before, it’s highly unlikely that you happen to know what leatherjackets bug is, and you probably don't know how to get rid of them either. In short, they’re grey and mousy brown grubs that eat at the roots of your grass, causing it to die off. They go mostly unnoticed as they begin their lives as eggs laid by crane flies (daddy long legs), and it takes a perfect storm of hot and wet weather to cause them to hatch. This happens in random patches because only some crane fly eggs will hatch, and once fully grown at the larvae stage; they will begin to eat the grass around them.
You won’t find the cure on supermarket shelves as the solution is actually a living one. Nematodes are microscopic (teeny tiny!) bacterial worms that can kill off leatherjackets, and because of this, they actually need to be refrigerated when purchased. Think of them like sea-monkeys for adults! When mixed with water and sprayed on the affected area, they’ll set to work killing off the leatherjackets in your lawn. With any product, make sure to read the instructions carefully and follow every step.
Once you’re confident your visitors are gone, you can set about repairing the damage they’ve left. Depending on how long they’ve been terrorising your lawn, there are two options you can consider - keep reading for our guide on how to repair leatherjacket damage.
Just as unhelpful as leatherjackets, chafer grubs eat away at the roots of your grass, causing the blades to yellow/brown from the bottom up. This also weakens your grass, so if chafer grubs have moved into your lawn, you will be able to pull away parts of your grass easily. The same rules apply, and by pulling back the turf in your lawn, you’ll be able to check if these greedy grass grubs have invited themselves to your garden party.
Chafer grubs eat away at the roots of your grass causing the blades to yellow / brown from the bottom up. This also weakens your grass, so if chafer grubs have moved into your lawn you will be able to pull away parts of your grass easily. Same rules apply, and by pulling back the turf in your lawn you’ll be able to check if these greedy grass grubs have invited themselves to your garden party. Just like leatherjackets, chafer grubs can be treated with the same Nemasys product – as said, make sure to read the instructions before use.
Most people recognise that worms in your soil are a good thing and are a sign of a healthy lawn (and they’re correct!) – worms help to improve the drainage in your lawn (less flooding) and are also great at recycling the nutrients within your soil. Unfortunately, worms get a little full up eating all those nutrients and may decide to hit the eject button on your lawn, leaving worm casts on the surface.
Whilst worms may create a little pile of soil on your lawn, moles will make their presence known by leaving a massive one! Before a mound appears you may notice ridge patterns in your lawn that are a sign that moles are tunnelling underneath the surface. This may make your lawn surface uneven, and while moles can certainly be a nuisance - they are ultimately harmless and are also a protected species.
If you find small heaps of soil appearing on top of your lawn leaving you scratching your head, you may discover that you have ants in your lawn. Now, ants are probably one of the last pests you would be worried about and aside from these heaps of soil they won’t be much trouble. If the ants are ruining your lawn aesthetic, you can brush the soil mounds out on a dry day to be level with the rest of your lawn. If you have children or pets and are concerned that some of the ants in your lawn might be harmful contact an ant specialist and do not attempt to remove the ants yourself.
Dog Pee Patches
Dog pee contains a chemical called Nitrogen, which, although found in lawn food to make your grass green, will cause your lawn to go patchy when your pup keeps going to the bathroom in the same area!
Step 1: Remove the affected grass by digging it out
Step 2: Use topsoil to fill in where the grass has been removed. Do not use compost in this area
Step 3: Sprinkle our Tough Stuff Lush Lawn on top
Step 4: Keep the repaired patch moist for six weeks after sowing by watering every day; if rainfall occurs, you can skip this step
You can avoid burnt grass patches by firstly watering your lawn after your dog uses it. This will help lessen nitrogen's effect and keep your grass from burning. The best way to do this is by using a garden hose or a watering can – it is unlikely that a sprinkler will water these patches enough to reduce the chance of burning. You can also cordon off an area for your dog to use regularly. You may find that certain products like dog rocks are suggested for reducing dog urine burn patches, but we recommend consulting your vet first before taking any action.
At icanlawn.com, we believe honesty is the best policy – so we won’t tell you that dog-resistant grass exists! Your best course of action for avoiding burnt pee patches on your lawn is to water them right away. Of course, this takes a little extra effort, but your lawn will thank you for it in the long run – and it also saves you from having to do any patch repairs!
Weeds, Weed Grasses & Moss
Weeds and moss can appear on your lawn at any time. Even the best cared-for lawn can have the odd weed. Thankfully, weeds and moss can be removed easily and in various ways!
The easiest way to learn how to get rid of weeds and moss is to check out our video guide on removing moss.
Dig the soil to remove roots
If your lawn has only a few weeds, these can be dug up using a garden trowel, making sure to remove all roots. Or you can use a selective weedkiller to target these directly.
Scarify or rake the soil to remove moss
Scarifying or raking the soil using a rake or electric scarifier can help remove moss – this may be a temporary solution if your lawn is vulnerable to moss due to shade or water retention.
Removing using Feed, Weed and Mosskiller
An alternative way to remove both weeds and moss that appear throughout your lawn is to use a Feed Weed and Moss Killer product, such as our 3 IN 1 Lawn Rescue.
To keep both weeds and moss at bay, take action as they begin to appear. You can also keep your lawn healthy by regularly feeding it.
Weed grasses appear like grasses but are invasive weeds. If you have weed grasses present in your lawn, you will notice thick clumps of broad-leafed grass that don’t quite fit in with the rest. Removing any sign of thicker grasses or weeds when they appear can stop them from becoming a huge problem, and a healthier lawn that is well looked after will be in a better position to fend them off. Feeding and overseeding your lawn helps to create a strong grass root system and a thick, dense lawn leaving little room for weeds to creep in.
Even the best cared-for lawn can show signs of weeds sprouting without warning. Weeds appearing can be even more surprising when you have done all the prep work when sowing your grass seeds. However, controlling these unexpected visitors is not difficult! So, keep reading and discover a few easy ways to remove weeds and moss from your newly seeded lawn.
Of all the pesky lawn diseases and weeds that can crop up on our lawns, moss is one of the most common. Unless your soil conditions are perfect, it’s likely that moss will make an appearance on your lawn at some stage.
Mosses are very shallow-rooted plants, so luckily, immediate removal is pretty easy. A simple 3 step process will help to kill dead moss and remove it from your lawn.
Controlling weeds in a newly seeded lawn can seem daunting, mainly when you've carried out all the necessary pre-sowing steps before planting your grass seed. We know it can be frustrating when new weeds start growing among your fresh new grass, but don't rush to what seems like the easiest solution - you don't need to use weed killers just yet!
Grass Diseases & Fungi
What is red thread?
Red thread is a common lawn disease that will appear across many UK lawns and thrives in hot and wet weather, which encourages the red thread fungus to grow. Whilst you can see red thread year-round, it is most common when we experience wet summers and autumns. In autumn, dead grass and moss can begin to gather on your lawn. This allows moisture to build up on the surface of your lawn and creates the perfect breeding ground for red thread.
How do I get rid of red thread grass disease?
Using a nitrogen-rich lawn food such as our Oh So Green will help to turn your red grass blades back to green again. Lawns that suffer from red thread are often low in nitrogen or haven’t been fed at all, so keep on top of this to prevent future red thread and other lawn diseases.
Damping off can occur if you have recently sown a new lawn or overseeded your existing lawn. Similar to Red Thread, it can take hold of your lawn when weather conditions are humid with heavy rainfall, creating a hot bed for fungi to grow and multiply. This particular disease can cause emerging seedlings to collapse or never to emerge at all.
Although this can occur at different times of year, it is most likely to happen in spring. Whilst there is no cure for Damping Off besides removal of the dead seedlings and starting from scratch again, you can help to prevent it by ensuring you sow / overseed your lawn in the right weather conditions. This means sowing when temperatures are 10 degrees and above, with no extreme weather conditions (floods, snow, frost or heatwaves) forecast for the first two weeks post-sowing.
As its name suggests, Snow Mould is most likely to occur in the winter months. If snow lingers on your lawn for too long, it can cause fungi to grow, encouraging yellow – brown spots to develop on your lawn. It can be difficult to control, so the best course of action here is prevention. If you have prolonged snowfall on your lawn for a number of days, you should aim to shovel it off in sections so that when it begins to melt, the moisture isn’t returning to your grass, encouraging more fungi to grow.
You may have noticed mushrooms growing on your lawn but haven’t seen any other gardens on your street plagued with these unsightly fungi – why is this? We’re here to provide advice on what causes mushrooms to grow in your garden and how to get rid of mushrooms on a lawn in the UK!
The best way to get rid of mushrooms in a lawn is prevention. By keeping an eye on your grass and soil conditions, you can be a step ahead of the mushrooms and stop their growth completely. Some soil types drain better than others, and some are more likely to hold water - we have a guide on soil types if you are unsure what kind of soil your garden has. As we also mentioned before, mushrooms feast on organic matter in your garden, so by removing grass cuttings, leaves, sticks, and twigs, you will reduce their food source.
If you’ve caught them late and the mushrooms have sprouted up without you noticing, the best thing to do is pull them out from the base of their stem as soon as possible! Removing them this way will also eliminate the risk of children or animals eating them and getting sick.
Short grass dries out faster than long grass, so mow your lawn regularly (once a week in spring and summer) to limit the quantity of water available for the mushrooms. Also, be sure to remove all grass cuttings after mowing to restrict the amount of food the mushrooms have to feed on!
Lawn Food FAQs
Knowing when to feed your lawn and what with can be confusing, so we've compiled a list of all the questions that have got you in a pickle!
At a minimum you should aim to feed your lawn twice a year – once in autumn and once in spring. It is always best to use lawn food that works over a longer period of time so you don’t overfeed your lawn with too many treatments. However, if you need a lawn feed for a specific reason, for example, a quick fix to green up your lawn, a boost before seeding, or you need to kill off weeds and moss – then a lawn food that works over a shorter period of time is recommended. Depending on the product, you can apply lawn food from March right through to October.
At the beginning of spring, you should apply a spring / summer feed such as our All Summer Long that lasts up to 4 months and helps keep your lawn green, weed- and disease-free. As we approach autumn, you should apply an autumn / winter feed such as our Winter Remedy, which also lasts 4 months to protect your lawn from frost and snow. Our All Natural Nutriboost can be used in both Spring and Autumn and is 100% organic. The combination of these treatments keeps your lawn fed for eight months of the year. Between November and February, your lawn is considered dormant, so there is no need to feed it.
There may be times when you require an additional lawn feed to do a specific job for you. Our 3 IN 1 Lawn Rescue completes three jobs in one to kill off weeds and moss and feed and green your lawn.
If you have little weeds or moss and want your lawn to be fabulously green - fast, our Oh So Green six-week treatment will give you the quick fix you need.
For sowing a new lawn or overseeding an existing one, our Pre-Seed First Feed contains all the necessary nutrients to get your new grass off to a flying start.
Feeding your lawn helps to keep it healthy. Lawn food is packed full of all the good stuff your lawn needs to stay in tip-top condition. Once you’ve picked the best lawn food for your needs, it’s time to learn how to use it.
Step 1: Read the instructions
All lawn food is made up of chemicals, so no matter what lawn food product you use – always read the instructions and do not apply lawn food and lawn seed at the same time. The instructions for our Lawn Food products can be found on the product label or by scanning the QR code on your product bag.
Step 2: Store correctly
You should store your lawn food in a cool and dry environment out of reach from kids and pets when not in use.
Step 3: Apply the lawn food
Scatter the lawn food at the recommended rate by hand when wearing a glove or by using a spreader.
Step 4: Water the lawn food
Most lawn food for use at home comes in granular form. Water the lawn food granules in until they dissolve, and you cannot see them on the surface of your lawn. You should keep kids and pets away from the lawn during application and until the granules dissolve.
Remove and water off any footwear you were wearing during the application of the lawn food to avoid any risk of damage to patios.
Sowing a new lawn from scratch
If you’re planning on sowing a new lawn from scratch this springtime, you should try our Pre-Seed First Feed. This feed gives your new seedlings the best possible start to their growth journey. It contains a mix of nitrogen, phosphate and potassium that will work together for six weeks to boost new leaf growth and greenness, improve the root system, and toughen up your new seedlings so that they are ready to fight off any lawn diseases that crop up over the spring and summer months.
Feeding an damaged lawn before summer arrives
Even with a meticulous lawn regime, there are times when you can’t avoid a weed or two popping up across your lawn or a cluster of moss appear. With the right lawn care, you can easily fix it. Our 3 IN 1 Lawn Rescue is a multifunctional lawn feed that will work to kill off any weeds or moss in the first two weeks of application and then continue to feed and green your lawn for four weeks after that.
Feeding an established lawn
To keep your lawn healthy year-round, you should aim to feed it at least twice a year. We recommend you offer your lawn a feed in autumn with our Winter Remedy and then again in spring using our All Summer Long lawn feed. When applied, our All Summer Long lawn feed will work over the course of 16 weeks to make sure your lawn is fully fed with all the beneficial nutrients it could want. We recommend applying this in spring to ensure your lawn is covered right through the summer months, where conditions can be quite testing on our lovely lawns.
Spreaders are a great way to ensure even coverage while overseeding or sowing a new lawn so you can avoid patchiness. They are also extremely helpful for applying lawn food or fertiliser to help minimise fertiliser burn and to make sure all areas receive the same amount of product.
With many different spreaders on the market, it can be difficult to know what setting to use when spreading lawn food for grass seed – so we’ve done the hard work for you!
Click Read More below for our detailed guide on what spreader settings to use.
Feeding your lawn before sowing can help set up the best foundation for your new seedling's growth, but what one should you use?
Whether you're sowing a new lawn or overseeding an existing lawn, or even just doing some patch-up repairs - choosing the right lawn feed beforehand can really speed up the growth of your new grass seed.
Feeding your lawn with a long-lasting winter lawn food in autumn - like our Winter Remedy will feed your grass the nutrients it needs over 16 weeks to stay strong during the cold winter months, resist common winter grass diseases and recover from the harsh weather of winter come spring.
Summer is when your lawn should (hopefully) be looking its very best, so if it isn’t – a feed is more than likely the missing thing it needs!
Lawn food has many different purposes, but in summer, its main goal is to keep your grass green and lush so it’ll stand up against warmer temperatures – and impress any impending guests! Below, we share some advice to help you pick the best lawn feed to keep your grass lush and green all summer long!
Like grass seed, the best lawn food for your lawn will fix the problems your lawn is facing and give it the nutrients it requires to thrive. Different lawn food offerings do different things for your grass. For example, they may work over a shorter or longer time or must be used in a certain season.
Applying lawn food correctly helps to keep your grass healthy and growing strong. Our lawn food is packed with all the good stuff your grass requires to grow as best it can.
The instructions for our Lawn Food products can be found on the product label or by scanning the QR code on your product bag.
The key to winter lawn feeding is to give it a feed of autumn/winter lawn food in the autumn months. An autumn/winter lawn feed gives your grass a boost of nutrients before the cold weather of winter arrives and helps ensure it's prepared for all that UK winter throws at it.
Wildflower Seed FAQs
Wrapping your head around wildflowers? Browse our FAQs to wonder no more
You should cut your wildflower meadow at the end of its flowering period. Using a strimmer or garden shears, cut your meadow down to 7cm in height and leave the flower heads to stay on your soil surface. Firm them in by foot to help their seedheads go back into the soil to encourage your meadow to come back again next year.
The best times to sow wildflower seeds are in autumn and spring. An autumn sow will bring spring blooms, and a spring sow will produce summer blooms. You can sow in between these seasons, but avoid sowing wildflowers from November to February when there is a risk of frozen soil.
This depends on where you are planning to sow your wildflowers. For a shaded area, we recommend sowing our Shade Showcase mix, as it contains the best wildflowers for growing in these conditions. For clay soils, Clay Display wildflowers will tolerate the wetness of winter clay soils and dryness of summer clay soils. For normal soil conditions with no shade, Bees Please or Hi Butterfly will bring a bevvy of beautiful blooms that are great for pollinators in spring and summer and excellent for wildlife in winter. For a full flower bed, Absolutely Annuals is made up of 100% wildflowers that make a real showpiece in your garden.
Our recommendation is that you do not try to sow wildflower seed into an existing lawn. For your sowing to succeed, the area should be clear of grass, weeds or other flora. The best way to prepare your wildflower area for sowing is to follow the steps in our How To guide.
Wildflower meadows are easy to sow and grow and bring a vibrant burst of colour and amazing variety to your garden beds and borders – not to mention a hive of activity from busy bees and butterflies.
Knowing how to create a wildflower meadow not only gives you the confidence to fill your garden with bright colours and sweet-smelling flowers, but it helps you enjoy the process of seeing it all come together! Whilst they are low maintenance and don’t require the same amount of preening and feeding that typical garden flora does, they do need a little bit of prep work to make them bloom beautifully!
So, keep reading for our helpful guide on how to create a wildflower meadow!
Generally, annuals bloom around 60-80 days after being sown, and perennials take up to one year to establish. However, when you will see green shoots appearing will depend on when you sow them, what wildflower seed mix you planted, and the weather conditions when you put your seeds into the ground and during the weeks that follow.
Wildflowers are relatively easy to grow, and they even thrive in poor soil conditions. All wildflowers require is a bird of seedbed prep work to ensure they have the correct conditions to grow, and then the rest of the work is done by nature!
You may be wondering why bees would need somewhere to stay when they are very efficient at making their own beehives, but solitary bees need somewhere to breed and thrive, making bee and insect hotels the perfect environment to do this in. Mason, Leafcutter, and Yellow-faced bees use the holes in their bee hotels to lay eggs. These bees are not aggressive and aren’t harmful to children or pets.
Knowing how to save your wildflower seed is a pretty easy process; with four simple steps, we will guide you through!
Step 1: Make sure the timing is right
When it comes to the end of the blooming season, your wildflowers will turn crisp and brown, and their heads will be full of seeds. This is the best time to save seeds, and it typically happens in Autumn.
Step 2: Identifying your wildflowers
Before you start to collect your wildflower seeds, it’s always good to know what seeds you are collecting so that you know for sowing the following year. Doing this will make it easier to organise and store your seeds.
Step 3: Collecting the seeds
Our top tip for storing and organising seeds is to use small envelopes. As we mentioned, if you have identified your seeds, you can label each envelope to keep everything organised.
Step 4: Storing your seeds
We recommend keeping your seeds in a cool, dry place and do not store your seeds in plastic as this will encourage condensation.
Bees are easily drawn to the bright colours, sweet smells, and moreish flavours of wildflowers. While this may attract them initially, the main thing that matters is that they get their share of nectar to fuel their busy lifestyles!
Yes, wildflowers like bluebells, foxglove, and forget-me-nots (and many others) that you would traditionally find growing naturally on the forest floor love shady conditions. These wildflowers add stunning blossoms packed with colour to the shaded areas of your garden, and you can find them in our Shade Showcase wildflower seed mix.
Yes, you certainly can grow wildflowers in clay soil! Did you know many species of wildflowers actually love clay soil? So, instead of digging up your garden soil and replacing it, why not try adding wildflowers for a delightful display of colour that also gives bees and pollinators more food?
The difference between annual and perennial wildflowers is quite simple. From the definition of “annual” – "to appear once a year", and this applies directly to wildflowers (and all plants in general!). Annual wildflowers bloom with outstanding beauty and glow vibrantly all season long. Then, come winter, they die, just like all annual plants. On the other hand, perennial wildflowers will come back every spring for many years!
Autumn is a great time to sow wildflowers! When most other garden activities are winding down for winter - autumn's weather continues to provide fantastic growing conditions for sowing wildflowers!
If you’re on the fence about sowing wildflowers and agonising over adding them to your garden, we have eight great reasons to convince you why sowing wildflowers is one of the best things you can do!
Butterflies adore nectar-rich wildflowers, so by planting these in your garden, you can attract a few to feast! We’ve made a list of some of their favourite flowers, such as Birdsfoot Trefoil, Purple Coneflower and more, that can all be found in our Hi Butterfly wildflower seed mix.
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