FAQs

You can sow grass seed when temperatures are 10 degrees and above consistently during the day and at night. Before sowing, check these temperatures are forecast in your area for at least two weeks. Do not sow in flood, frost, snow or extremely hot conditions. With this in mind, typically the best times to sow are Spring or Autumn, and in most parts of the UK you can confidently sow from April right through to September.

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The best way to learn how to sow a new lawn is by using our video guide / step by step pictorial guide.  You can also scan the QR code on the back of your bag that will take you directly to our How To Hub.

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The best way to learn how to overseed a new lawn is by using our video guide / step by step pictorial guide.  You can also scan the QR code on the back of your bag that will take you directly to our How To Hub.

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A perfect seedbed should be five things; free of weeds and moss, stones or debris, and easy to rake through and level. You will achieve the perfect lawn if you have achieved these five things! Click below to read more about achieving the perfect seedbed for your grass seed.

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Weeds and moss can appear on your lawn at any time. Even the best cared-for lawn can have the odd weed. Weeds and moss can be removed in various ways, so keep reading for more information on how to remove weeds and moss from your lawn!

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Wear and tear is a natural occurrence in any lawn that gets a lot of use, causing patchy grass or creating bald spots in your lawn. But if the rest of your lawn is in good condition and only a few areas need a little help – it’s easy enough to do a quick repair! Knowing how to repair patches in your lawn is the quickest way to get your garden grass healthy and lush again!

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The best lawn seed for your lawn may differ for your neighbours, friends, and family – and with so many to choose from, it can be hard to decide which one is best! Our guide will help break down the best grass seed you need to create the ideal lawn for you that is fit for purpose:

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We have a handy product calculator to help you find out how much grass seed, lawn food wildflower seed you need for your garden. All you need to do is measure the length and width of your garden (in metres) and enter them into our product calculator. We also have a product calculator on the right-hand-side of each product page on our website.

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The best grass seed for overseeding your lawn is the one that has been created with your lawn’s needs at the top of the list. Overseeding is a good opportunity to regain that lush lawn, repairing any patchy or tired-looking grass that may have emerged from any tough love your garden has been through. Click below for our guide on choosing the best grass seed for overseeding:

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Spreaders are a great way to ensure even coverage while overseeding or sowing a new lawn so you can avoid patchiness. They are also extremely helpful for applying lawn food or fertiliser to help minimise fertiliser burn, and to make sure all areas receive the same amount product. We have a guide on choosing the best spreader settings, to ensure your garden gets the coverage it needs to grow thick and lush:

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Setting your seed up with the best foundation for growth will go a long way to producing the perfect lawn. Our Pre-Seed First Feed is packed with all the nutrients your lawn needs to accelerate the growth of new seedlings and get your ultimate lawn well underway! Due to its fast-acting nature, this lawn food is also perfect for fixing up wear and tear patches and can be used as a general lawn feed from March to September. For sowing a new lawn or overseeding an existing one, our Pre-Seed First Feed contains all the necessary nutrients to get your new grass off to a flying start.

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When you aerate your lawn, you create pockets of air in the soil that helps to break up this compaction and allows nutrients, water and oxygen to flow again, improving the health and overall look of your lawn. Essentially, you're allowing your lawn to ‘breathe’, which works wonders for how it looks in the long run.

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Most grass seed will sprout within 10 days of being sown – if sown in the correct conditions for growth. This means sowing when temperatures are 10 degrees and above, with good weather forecast for the following two weeks.

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If sown in the correct conditions, your lawn should be fully grown at the 6-8 week mark when your grass is hitting heights of 5 – 7cm.

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You should water a newly sown lawn once a day, everyday, for 6 weeks avoiding when it is raining. Our UK weather will do a good job of watering an existing lawn for most of the year – but during a drought you should aim to water deeply between 10-14 days apart to help your grass’ root system to build resilience.

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Having a stunning, lush lawn adds tremendous charm and beauty to any garden. Whether you’re starting from scratch or looking to revive your existing lawn, sowing grass seed is a cost-effective and efficient way to achieve a thriving and vibrant garden lawn. In our how to sow grass seed guide, we walk you through the step-by-step process, ensuring you have all the necessary information to get your grass seeds growing as best they can from day one!

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Most grass seed will sprout within 10 days of being sown – if sown in the correct conditions for growth. This means sowing when temperatures are 10 degrees and above, with good weather forecast for the following two weeks. Keep reading for some helpful advice and the answer to the common question - "how long does grass take to grow".

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You should aim to water your new lawn every day for the first six weeks from when you’ve planted your seeds. This six-week period is how long it takes for your grass to grow fully, and it will be ready for its first mow afterwards! You can hold off watering on days when it's forecast to rain outside.

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Customers often ask us "when to mow new grass", and the answer is simple. Giving your seedlings at least six weeks to grow before approaching them with your mower is best.

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Even the best cared-for lawn can show signs of weeds sprouting without warning. Weeds appearing can be even more surprising when you have done all the prep work when sowing your seeds. However, controlling these unexpected visitors is not difficult! So, keep reading and discover a few easy ways to remove weeds and moss from your newly seeded lawn.

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One thing to add is that we recommend you stay off the lawn for at least weeks after sowing the seed. This will give your grass time to grow and develop uninterrupted. It's best to not use your lawn at all (if possible) until after your first mow when the grass grows to 50-70mm.

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This is when you will dust the cobwebs off your lawnmower from winter and give your lawn its first mow of the year, usually around mid-March. From there on, you should aim to mow your lawn at least once a week.

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You can mow your lawn at any height you like, but its best to follow a guide to keep your grass healthy. Cutting your lawn too short can damage it, and letting it grow too long can encourage weeds and disease to take hold. If your lawn gets a lot of use, you should mow at 20-40mm to keep it long and lush. For a finer lawn that’s just for show, you can mow shorter at 10-20mm. Regardless of what type of lawn you have, your first mow (spring) and last mow of the season (autumn) should be on the highest setting on your lawnmower.

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From late February onwards your grass will resume growth and you may be wondering how often you should mow your lawn. In Spring and Summer you should aim to cut your lawn once a week. Cutting your grass too often and too short can stress it, so try to avoid this and enjoy your lawn between mows.

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You should wait 6-8 weeks before mowing a new lawn, when your new grass is hitting heights of 5-7cm. Always cut new grass on the highest setting of your lawn mower before gradually reducing to your preferred mowing height. For general use lawns, aim to mow you grass at 20-40mm. For fine ornamental lawns, keep your height at 10-20mm.

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We recommend letting your grass grow to around 50-70mm before cutting it (about the height of your ankle) – and this applies to all our grass seed products. However, it isn't ready for cutting if it hasn't reached this height after six to eight weeks. This slow growth could be due to a lack of soil nutrients, an unexpected weather change, or you may have sown your seed too deep into the soil.

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It comes down to rotary vs cylinder mowers when deciding what is best. Your pick of the two comes down to what sort of cut you want your lawn to achieve and how much time you have on your hands!

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Just as the sowing season comes to an end from October onwards, so does the mowing season. If you find your lawn needing a trim, mow on the highest setting, avoiding times when the soil is too soft or frozen, as this will damage your lawn. Once temperatures have dropped and grass growth has stalled, you can tuck your mower away for another season.

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You can achieve lawn stripes using a mower with a rear roller that pushes the grass blades backwards and forwards. Or you can use a brush for a smaller area.

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A healthy lawn is a happy lawn that can be enjoyed year after year. Keeping your lawn healthy doesn’t have to be a difficult job. Completing smaller tasks more regularly can mean that you won’t have as many jobs to do when summer arrives. Keep reading for our six steps to keep your lawn healthy and in good condition.

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Unless you’ve had them before, it’s highly unlikely that you happen to know what leatherjackets bug is, and you probably don't know how to get rid of them either. In short, they’re grey and mousy brown grubs that eat at the roots of your grass, causing it to die off. They go mostly unnoticed as they begin their lives as eggs laid by crane flies (daddy long legs), and it takes a perfect storm of hot and wet weather to cause them to hatch. This happens in random patches because only some crane fly eggs will hatch, and once fully grown at the larvae stage; they will begin to eat the grass around them.

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You won’t find the cure on supermarket shelves as the solution is actually a living one. Nematodes are microscopic (teeny tiny!) bacterial worms that can kill off leatherjackets, and because of this, they actually need to be refrigerated when purchased. Think of them like sea-monkeys for adults! When mixed with water and sprayed on the affected area, they’ll set to work killing off the leatherjackets in your lawn. With any product, make sure to read the instructions carefully and follow every step.

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Once you’re confident your visitors are gone, you can set about repairing the damage they’ve left. Depending on how long they’ve been terrorising your lawn, there are two options you can consider - keep reading for our guide on how to repair leatherjacket damage.

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Just as unhelpful as leatherjackets, chafer grubs eat away at the roots of your grass, causing the blades to yellow/brown from the bottom up. This also weakens your grass, so if chafer grubs have moved into your lawn, you will be able to pull away parts of your grass easily. The same rules apply, and by pulling back the turf in your lawn, you’ll be able to check if these greedy grass grubs have invited themselves to your garden party.

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Chafer grubs eat away at the roots of your grass causing the blades to yellow / brown from the bottom up. This also weakens your grass, so if chafer grubs have moved into your lawn you will be able to pull away parts of your grass easily. Same rules apply, and by pulling back the turf in your lawn you’ll be able to check if these greedy grass grubs have invited themselves to your garden party. Just like leatherjackets, chafer grubs can be treated with the same Nemasys product – as said, make sure to read the instructions before use.

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Most people recognise that worms in your soil are a good thing and are a sign of a healthy lawn (and they’re correct!) – worms help to improve the drainage in your lawn (less flooding) and are also great at recycling the nutrients within your soil. Unfortunately, worms get a little full up eating all those nutrients and may decide to hit the eject button on your lawn, leaving worm casts on the surface.

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Whilst worms may create a little pile of soil on your lawn, moles will make their presence known by leaving a massive one! Before a mound appears you may notice ridge patterns in your lawn that are a sign that moles are tunnelling underneath the surface. This may make your lawn surface uneven, and while moles can certainly be a nuisance - they are ultimately harmless and are also a protected species.

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If you find small heaps of soil appearing on top of your lawn leaving you scratching your head, you may discover that you have ants in your lawn. Now, ants are probably one of the last pests you would be worried about and aside from these heaps of soil they won’t be much trouble. If the ants are ruining your lawn aesthetic, you can brush the soil mounds out on a dry day to be level with the rest of your lawn. If you have children or pets and are concerned that some of the ants in your lawn might be harmful contact an ant specialist and do not attempt to remove the ants yourself.

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Dog pee contains a chemical called Nitrogen, which, although found in lawn food to make your grass green, will cause your lawn to go patchy when your pup keeps going to the bathroom in the same area!

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Step 1: Remove the affected grass by digging it out Step 2: Use topsoil to fill in where the grass has been removed. Do not to use compost in this area Step 3: Sprinkle our Tough Stuff Lush Lawn on top Step 4: Keep the repaired patch moist for six weeks after sowing by watering every day, if rainfall occurs, you can skip this

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You can avoid burnt grass patches by firstly watering your lawn after your dog uses it. This will help lessen nitrogen's effect and keep your grass from burning. The best way to do this is by using a garden hose or a watering can – it is unlikely that a sprinkler will water these patches enough to reduce the chance of burning. You can also cordon off an area for your dog to use regularly. You may find that certain products like dog rocks are suggested for reducing dog urine burn patches, but we recommend consulting your vet first before taking any action.

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At icanlawn.com, we believe honesty is the best policy – so we won’t tell you that dog-resistant grass exists! Your best course of action for avoiding burnt pee patches on your lawn is to water them right away. Of course, this takes a little extra effort, but your lawn will thank you for it in the long run – and it also saves you from having to do any patch repairs!

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Weeds and moss can appear on your lawn at any time. Even the best cared-for lawn can have the odd weed. Thankfully, weeds and moss can be removed easily and in various ways!

The easiest way to learn how to get rid of weeds and moss is to check out our video guide here.

Dig the soil to remove roots

If your lawn has only a few weeds, these can be dug up using a garden trowel, making sure to remove all roots. Or you can use a selective weedkiller to target these directly.

Scarify or rake the soil to remove moss

Scarifying or raking the soil using a rake or electric scarifier can help remove moss – this may be a temporary solution if your lawn is vulnerable to moss due to shade or water retention.

Removing using Feed, Weed and Mosskiller

An alternative way to remove both weeds and moss that appear throughout your lawn is to use a Feed Weed and Moss Killer product, such as our 3 IN 1 Lawn Rescue.

To keep both weeds and moss at bay, take action as they begin to appear. You can also keep your lawn healthy by regularly feeding it.

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Weed grasses appear like grasses but are invasive weeds. If you have weed grasses present in your lawn, you will notice thick clumps of broad-leafed grass that don’t quite fit in with the rest. Removing any sign of thicker grasses or weeds when they appear can stop them from becoming a huge problem, and a healthier lawn that is well looked after will be in a better position to fend them off. Feeding and overseeding your lawn helps to create a strong grass root system and a thick, dense lawn leaving little room for weeds to creep in.

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Even the best cared-for lawn can show signs of weeds sprouting without warning. Weeds appearing can be even more surprising when you have done all the prep work when sowing your seeds. However, controlling these unexpected visitors is not difficult! So, keep reading and discover a few easy ways to remove weeds and moss from your newly seeded lawn.

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Of all the pesky lawn diseases and weeds that can crop up on our lawns, moss is one of the most common. Unless your soil conditions are perfect, it’s likely that moss will make an appearance on your lawn at some stage.

Mosses are very shallow-rooted plants, so luckily, immediate removal is pretty easy. A simple 3 step process will help to kill dead moss and remove it from your lawn.

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Controlling weeds in a newly seeded lawn can seem daunting, mainly when you've carried out all the necessary pre-sowing steps before planting your grass seed. We know it can be frustrating when new weeds start growing among your fresh new grass but don't rush to what seems like the easiest solution - you don't need to use weed killers just yet!

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What is red thread?

Red thread is a common lawn disease that will appear across many UK lawns and thrives in hot and wet weather, which encourages the red thread fungus to grow. Whilst you can see red thread year-round, it is most common when we experience wet summers and autumns. In autumn, dead grass and moss can begin to gather on your lawn. This allows moisture to build up on the surface of your lawn and creates the perfect breeding ground for red thread.

How do I get rid of red thread grass disease?

Using a nitrogen-rich lawn food such as our Oh So Green will help to turn your red grass blades back to green again. Lawns that suffer from red thread are often low in nitrogen or haven’t been fed at all, so keep on top of this to prevent future red thread and other lawn diseases.

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At a minimum you should aim to feed your lawn twice a year – once in autumn and once in spring. It is always best to use a lawn food that works over a longer period of time so you don’t overfeed your lawn with too many treatments. However, if you need a lawn feed for a specific reason, for example a quick fix to green up your lawn, a boost before seeding or you need to kill off weeds and moss – then a lawn food that works over a shorter period of time is recommended. Depending on the product, you can apply lawn food from March right through to October.

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At the beginning of spring, you should apply a spring / summer feed such as our All Summer Long that lasts up to 4 months and helps to keep your lawn green, weed and disease free. As we approach autumn, you should apply an autumn / winter feed such as our Winter Remedy that also lasts 4 months to protect your lawn from frost and snow. Our All Natural Nutriboost can be used in both Spring and Autumn and is 100% organic. The combination of these treatments keeps your lawn fed for 8 months of the year. Between November to February, your lawn is considered dormant so there is no need to feed your lawn during this time.

There may be times when you require an additional lawn feed to do a specific job for you. Our 3 IN 1 Lawn Rescue completes three jobs in one to kill off weeds and moss and feed and green your lawn.

If you have little weeds or moss and want your lawn to be fabulously green - fast, our Oh So Green six-week treatment will give you the quick fix you need.

For sowing a new lawn or overseeding an existing one, our Pre-Seed First Feed contains all the necessary nutrients to get your new grass off to a flying start.

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Feeding your lawn helps to keep it healthy. Lawn food is packed full of all the good stuff your lawn needs to stay in tip top condition. Once you’ve picked the best lawn food for your needs, it’s time to learn how to use it.

Step 1: Read the instructions

All lawn food is made up of chemicals, so no matter what lawn food product you use – always read the instructions and do not apply lawn food and lawn seed at the same time. The instructions for our Lawn Food products can be found on the product label, or by scanning the QR code on your product bag.

Step 2: Store correctly  

You should store your lawn food in a cool and dry environment out of reach from kids and pets when not in use.

Step 3: Apply the lawn food

Scatter the lawn food at the recommended rate by hand when wearing a glove, or by using a spreader.

Step 4: Water the lawn food

Most lawn food for use at home comes in granular form. Water the lawn food granules in until they dissolve, and you cannot see them on the surface of your lawn. You should keep kids and pets away from the lawn during application and until the granules dissolve.

Remove and water off any footwear you were wearing during the application of the lawn food to avoid any risk of damage to patios.

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Whatever lawn food product you use, you should always make sure to wait the suggested time before applying any more. For example, if your lawn feed lasts for 16 weeks - you should allow it to work on your lawn for this amount of time before applying another product. 

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You should cut your wildflower meadow at the end of its flowering period. Using a strimmer or garden shears, cut your meadow down to 7cm in height and leave the flower heads to stay on your soil surface. Firm them in by foot to help their seedheads go back into the soil to encourage your meadow to come back again next year.

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The best times to sow wildflower seed are in autumn and spring. An autumn sow will bring spring blooms and a spring sow will produce summer blooms. You can sow in between these seasons but avoid sowing wildflowers from November to February when there is a risk of frozen soil.

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This depends on where you are planning to sow your wildflowers. For a shaded area, we recommend sowing our Shade Showcase mix as it contains the best wildflowers for growing in these conditions. For clay soils, Clay Display wildflowers will tolerate the wetness of winter clay soils and dryness of summer clay soils. For normal soil conditions with no shade, Bees Please or Hi Butterfly will bring a bevy of beautiful blooms that are great for pollinators in spring and summer and excellent for wildlife in winter. For a full flower bed, Absolutely Annuals is made up of 100% wildflowers that makes a real showpiece in your garden.

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Our recommendation is that you do not try to sow wildflower seed into an existing lawn. For your sowing to be successful, the area should be clear of grass, weeds or any other flora. The best way to prepare your wildflower area for sowing is to follow the steps in our How To guide.

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Wildflower meadows are easy to sow and grow and bring a vibrant burst of colour and amazing variety to your garden beds and borders – not to mention a hive of activity from busy bees and butterflies.

Knowing how to create a wildflower meadow not only gives you the confidence to fill your garden with bright colours and sweet-smelling flowers, but it helps you enjoy the process of seeing it all come together! Whilst they are low maintenance and don’t require the same amount of preening and feeding that typical garden flora does, they do need a little bit of prep work to make them bloom beautifully!

So, keep reading for our helpful guide on how to create a wildflower meadow!

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